[tkb01029]

$125 USD, works/fits quite well - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4CZRFT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mainer904]

For those with the OEM rack, could someone please measure the usable space of the actual crossbar? The space between the mounts. I've got a Yakima portage system and trying to see if it'll fit when carrying my canoe. If not, I'll probably consider the Thule. Thanks!

 

[zim2dive]

For those with the OEM rack, could someone please measure the usable space of the actual crossbar? The space between the mounts. I've got a Yakima portage system and trying to see if it'll fit when carrying my canoe. If not, I'll probably consider the Thule. Thanks!

I measure 34"

 

[ExRxIT]

I puzzled over how to tie down the bow of my canoe without running straps over painted body panels. Then I found DHLink Under Hood Boat Tie Downs on Amazon. Two little straps that attach to existing bolts under the hood. They flip out to attach your bow lines and back under the hood when not in use. Perfect solution, and they are only $8.19!

 

[mainer904]

DHLink Under Hood Boat Tie Downs

What I have done in the past (and already did with the Palisade) is look in the spare tire kit for the threaded tow bolt. There is a false front in the front and rear bumpers. Just pop it out, and thread the bolt into it, then tie the bow and stern to it. I need to buy another one of these bolts so I can tie both. It should stick out far enough to clear the bumper, assuming the bow is forward enough. To be clear, I also am using the cinch straps to secure it to a roof rack as well. There is no such thing as overkill to me.

 

[ExRxIT]

The tow bolts are perfect if your boat is long enough. I should have mentioned that mine is 12 feet short, so tying to the front tow hook won't work. Agree about no such thing as overkill! Cinch straps are essential. Tighten them so that shoving on your boat rocks the car. Then tension your bow and stern ropes tight enough to strum a tune on.

 

[Dadpad]

We just bought a brand new Palisade that came with factory crossbar rails on the roof. We have no use for them so I took them off. I would be willing to sell them if anyone is interested. They are easy to take off and put back on. Let me know if anyone is interested.

Hi, did you sell the bars? Thanks.

 

[st2006]

Did anyone manage to install the Snailfly bars from Amazon/eBay without any wind noise. I have horrible whistle post 5 mph and its driving me crazy. I'm supposed to install a ski rack on top of it but test drove first and now i'm not sure if its even worth it.

1. I want to move it lback a little but don't think it is wide enough. Its sitting on top of the B pillar.now

2. Has anyone installed MotorFansClub from Amazon (they look very simialr to Snailfly) or the OMAC shop one

 

[chiefsilverback]

I'm planning to order the Thule setup for our new SEL. I've been all Yakima until now, but I'm replacing my Yakima tower hitch racks with 1Up tray racks, and I read some negative reviews of the Yakima towers/attachments for the Palisade. Finally when I asked the guys at Rack Attack they said for the flush rails the Thule is "just better".

My question for anyone who has the Thule setup, I know they recommend 53" bars, but could you get away with 50" or even the 47", and regardless of bar width, what's the usable length of bar between the towers? In the summer I like to run my roof box to one side so I have room for a single bike tray rack, and I'm curious to know if that will fit within the towers?

Finally for the folks commenting the price of the Thule/Yakima setups, I take the view that I've just dropped the best part of $50K on a car, and I'm going to be carrying thousands of dollars worth of skis/bikes/gear up there, so $500 for a quality set of roof bars doesn't seem like it's worth haggling over.

 

[Baseballhead]

Can someone please let me know how the fit of the Thule, or Yakama roof rack on the roof rail? the OEM roof rack clamp is only grabbing on the small lip on the roof rail. I am concerned about the upwind force that is going to put on my 18 feet canoe and possibly lifting the roof rack right off the roof rail.

 

[Baseballhead]

Thanks! Install was not bad at all. Took longer getting them ready for install than actually installing. Maybe 45 mins total. As for the rims, they are the normal limited rims but just in black. Real happy with how it looks.

NIce rim! My question is, it looks like the clamp of the fit kit is only grabbing the small lip on the roof rail on the outside. What does it look like on the inside of the fit kit(photo if possible)? My concern is transporting a canoe and the uplift from the wind will pull the rack right off the roof rail.

 

[StarshipEnterprise]

Can someone please let me know how the fit of the Thule, or Yakama roof rack on the roof rail? the OEM roof rack clamp is only grabbing on the small lip on the roof rail. I am concerned about the upwind force that is going to put on my 18 feet canoe and possibly lifting the roof rack right off the roof rail.

I'd trust it. Otherwise lawsuit?

Seriously though, if within guidelines, it should be fine.

I have the oem bars and though it's just a clamp, it's tight!

 

[st2006]

Has anyone installed the redesigned snailfly ones on Amzon that doesnt have the black rubber strip in the middle. Can you comment on the road noise and how high it sits. Seems to me its higher than the snailfl ones with rubber strip but probably same height as the stock ones.

 

[Baseballhead]

I'd trust it. Otherwise lawsuit?

Seriously though, if within guidelines, it should be fine.

I have the oem bars and though it's just a clamp, it's tight!

I purchased an aftermarket roof rack from amazon but had to return it due to poor fit on the roof rail. I decided to stick with the factory roof rack and happy with the roof rack clamp on the roof rail. The outside clamp is 5"X3/4" wide and the inside clamp is 3"x3/4", It's clamp right under the lip to prevent the clamp from lifting off the rail. I used the roof rack to transport a $4800 canoe and I now have full confidence in the factory roof rack.
Thanks for your input.

 

[st2006]

I purchased an aftermarket roof rack from amazon but had to return it due to poor fit on the roof rail. I decided to stick with the factory roof rack and happy with the roof rack clamp on the roof rail. The outside clamp is 5"X3/4" wide and the inside clamp is 3"x3/4", It's clamp right under the lip to prevent the clamp from lifting off the rail. I used the roof rack to transport a $4800 canoe and I now have full confidence in the factory roof rack.
Thanks for your input.
View attachment 3643 View attachment 3644 View attachment 3645 View attachment 3646

wow thats a perfect fit compared to snailfly ones that I returned

 

[sleze]

We went with the Harbor Freight Haul Master Rack and Cargo Carrier. It was about $170 total. Here is a photo of how it is installed (note the rope wrapped around the first crossbar).

It is high enough to open the sunroof but there's definitely noise. It starts around 40mph and gets louder as you hit 70mph. That being said, it is not so loud that you can't hear the radio or talk to someone. It is just noticeable due to how quiet the car normally is. I would compare it to what it sounds like if you vented the sunroof at speed. Right now, the front crossbar is lined up where the drivers and send row doors meet. Perhaps I need to move it forward or back a bit.

For a fraction of the Thule or Yakima (racks only), it is a very good buy considering we will only put it on when we need it.

 

[Baseballhead]

We went with the Harbor Freight Haul Master Rack and Cargo Carrier. It was about $170 total. Here is a photo of how it is installed (note the rope wrapped around the first crossbar).

View attachment 3666

It is high enough to open the sunroof but there's definitely noise. It starts around 40mph and gets louder as you hit 70mph. That being said, it is not so loud that you can't hear the radio or talk to someone. It is just noticeable due to how quiet the car normally is. I would compare it to what it sounds like if you vented the sunroof at speed. Right now, the front crossbar is lined up where the drivers and send row doors meet. Perhaps I need to move it forward or back a bit.

For a fraction of the Thule or Yakima (racks only), it is a very good buy considering we will only put it on when we need it.

Be careful, the aftermarket roof rack doesn't look secure clamping on the roof rail. You don't want your cargo flying off on the highway and hitting the car behind you. just my opinion!

 

[StarshipEnterprise]

I went with OEM and they are solid, though not very eye-pleasing.

Since I also will hardly use the cargo carrier, I was given my parents' old Kar-Rite Carrier (the one with the kangaroo from sears I think... They'd call it the 'big mac'). I remember it from my childhood travels with them.

Anyway, I retrofitted it using hardware from Lowe's (u-bolts and plates) so the clamp style is similar to more modern carriers. Plan to pressure wash it and paint it flat black, as well as replace the weatherstripping. Not bad considering $60 all-in with hardware and paint).

Yeah, it's not too pretty either, but that's not my concern. 😁

Added bonus, there was no additional wind noise noticed and MPG, while not fully loaded, only went down about a mile per on board computer.

 

[sleze]

Be careful, the aftermarket roof rack doesn't look secure clamping on the roof rail. You don't want your cargo flying off on the highway and hitting the car behind you. just my opinion!

I had that concern as well but the outside of the clamps digs under the ridge along the top. Attached is a cropped version of the original photo (it's raining outside so I don't feel like getting a better closeup). Also it is a solid connection when I pull on it vigorously (car moves, not the rack).

I will post an update if there are any problems (probably won't be before July).

 

[sleze]

I had that concern as well but the outside of the clamps digs under the ridge along the top. Attached is a cropped version of the original photo (it's raining outside so I don't feel like getting a better closeup). Also it is a solid connection when I pull on it vigorously (car moves, not the rack).



I will post an update if there are any problems (probably won't be before July).

I moved it back to match some of the pics I see in other implementations (front crossbars aligned to about the middle of the 2nd row windows). The sound from the air is still present but it is a few feet behind the driver's row, so it is definitely quieter than before (so that will be the kids' problem).

Also, here is a better close up of where the crossbar clamps to the car.

The backside is just flat with rubber on it and the "toothed" side that you can see is very solidly pushed against the lip. It is a pretty decent connection and I am not worried about it coming loose.