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Hi all,

I'm new, so please tell me if this is not right place to post.

I am also considering Palisade vs X7 (vs Q7). We have a family of 5 - kids are age 8/7/2. Main use case is daily driver/road trips. I buy a new car like once every decade or two, so while the X7 is pricier, the price diff won't be the deciding factor. More trying to figure out which will serve our family best. Also I don't mind a car that is fun to drive :)

What do you think of space in X7 vs Palisade given our family size? If we take the car to the mountains and snow, which one will handle the kids + a bunch of gear? Will it be adequate as they grow to teenager-sized peoples? Any other thoughts for a long-term car?

(Kids want a bench seat - they like to sit side by side)

Thanks!
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe and will likely upgrade to the larger Palisade. I test drove one and 7 of us went on a short road trip. My son was almost 6 feet tall at the time and he and his cousin rode in the very back seats. He said it was fine for the short trip but if we were spending days driving he would like the middle row. He fits very well in the middle row. We loved all the features that come with the Palisade. Now I just have to talk myself into giving up my gas mileage for my son's comfort! He will be driving in a couple of years anyway. I have not driven the Q7 so I cannot say much about it.
 

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LOL....it is. In the video, but thanks? As for others joining the conversation, the math will be the same and irrefutable. If you have headroom up to $85K then the new Tahoe is less and easily fits in the consideration set.
Not everyone will watch the video. Not everyone who reads this thread is necessary looking to spend that kind of money and is simply interested in reading how people compare these cars.

I don't know why you have such a problem with my posting the price of the Tahoe High Country. It's useful info in the context of this thread. Let it go already.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks everyone for the thoughtful responses. It's a testament to this vehicle that it's not seen as crazy to run comps to cars 20-30k higher.

And the fact that such a kind and supportive community already exists counts for a lot too!
 

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Not a direct response to the OP's question asked, but perhaps something to consider for those who are in a similar position:

An SUV is great as a daily driver, hauling people and some cargo, and long road trips. By design these cars are excellent at hauling and limited by the laws of physics when it comes to fun to drive. Yes, some SUVs are better balanced and are more engaging to drive than others, but if you are looking for a fun car, a tall box on wheels with a high center of gravity and a lot of weight is not going to satisfy. If the budget allows it, maybe buy the practical and value-packed Palisade for the family and daily responsibilities, then with the money you saved buy yourself a really fun car that can actually deliver the "Sport" you seek in the SUV.
I see there are several reasons this wont work for lots of people but it is just an idea.

I personally love the looks and handling of the X7 (even in 6 cylinder form) so if money were no object, I'd lease that in a heartbeat. Unfortunately money is a concern of mine and I'd hate to own another German car out of warranty again, despite how nice they were. The peace of mind of owning a car with such a long warranty is priceless these days, especially with how complicated cars are now compared to how they were just 10 years ago.

Best of luck in your car search and please keep us updated! Cheers to years of trouble-free driving
 

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Simply some perspective... I can't and won't spend $80+K on an SUV, so the 2020 Palisade Limited at $48K (I also negotiated over $2.8K off the sticker as well) that we purchased is meeting our needs and the fit and finish in some instances rivals vehicles nearly twice it's price. The Palisade gets a lot of looks and compliments.

I'm a performance "car" guy and have ridden in and driven various Audi's, BMW's, MB's, etc. and for the money, I'm not all that impressed. Looking at maintenance costs of those vehicles (once outside of the included maintenance) I find the pricing to be ridiculous and for those where money is no object. I'm fine spending money on a collector vehicle, but not a depreciable asset like an SUV. I had a BMW 540i that was out of the warranty period and it developed a vacuum leak which turned out to be a rubber boot and the dealer whacked me over $800 to find and replace a $30 piece of rubber... yes smoke testing and diagnostic time was also part of the cost, but $800 (discounted) is insane, but part of owning a "high-end" brand. Additionally, the various codes that started popping up as well from time to time made me send it on it's way. These types of issues with a Hyundai should be much more reasonable. I'll work through any quirks that may pop up on the Palisade knowing that an $85+K SUV would likely also have some BS to deal with at some point as well.
 

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Maybe I have been spoiled by my previous vehicles. Most of them have been driven 10 years except a 2005 highlander that lasted us for 15 years and was running great when we traded it in. I have never purchased any type of extended warranty. I have never needed one. Maybe I just jinxed myself but I steer clear of extended warranties. We have only owned Toyota, Honda and Hyundai vehicles. The loan exception was a Mazda 626 that we leased and that thing was a pos. I couldn't wait to turn that thing in and be done with it.
What worries me is the electronics, especially in a new model. In my old Lexus LS460 the nav unit replacement cost $13,000. I also had an LS430 with air suspension, the right front shock started leaking air and had to be replaced. Can't just replace one, at a minimum have to replace both front shocks. Another $5K. Thankfully both were covered by an extended warranty. I'm sure Hyundai repair costs aren't in nose bleed territory like Lexus but if something like a nav unit or that big, bright, beautiful screen goes out it's going to be a dealer repair. I know I won't have to worry about repair costs until 2030, and by then I'll be ready for something else.
 

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Technically you are paying for repair costs whether you need them or not with an extended warranty. I get it though.

My wife drives an 2014 ES 300h. She loves the car and we haven't needed any extra repair work, knock on wood.
 

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Frankly I wouldn’t own any car outside of warranty unless I bought it used and let someone else take the 20-30% depreciation hit for me. There are some cars where the warranty comes into play so often that even in-warranty becomes an issue. Like our Palisade.

The new Tahoe just hit showrooms 3 weeks ago and looks to have improved in all the areas it was lacking, except maybe dash design where it still looks a little dated.

Another thing to consider is true cost of ownership. You can pay $63K for a BMW X7 that’s worth $33K 4 years later. You can pay $51K for a Palisade that’s worth $21K 4 years later. The cost of ownership would be the same. MANY people miss this when buying a car. Warranties and free maintenance neutralize other costs and if mileage is similar you have a wash.

Our dealership saw our Palisade more than we did in the end and after 3 months and 9K on the odometer our X7 has been bullet-proof. We’ll see where we are in 4 years.
 

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I'm not following the cost of ownership being the same for two vehicles at two different price points simply because the depreciation is the same even if their is a greater residual on the more expensive vehicle. The cost of ownership can't simply be the depreciation amount + a higher residual. If someone is making a payment on a $63K vehicle, the cost of ownership is noticeably greater than the $51K vehicle, regardless of what the end depreciation is over the ownership term and/or residual value is, especially if there is a loan with interest. If this were the case, then I should have sprung for the $106K Shelby GT500 vs my $65K GT350, especially if I only plan on keeping it for a short number of years. Owning the $63K vehicle for the same duration as the $51K vehicle will cost more. I'm certainly not trying to be the one that is right, because I could care less who is technically right....it's just not the experience that I've had in the many years of owning various vehicles at different price points.
 

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I don’t think that residual value works with Fords. LOL, seriously though, this is what trips people up. Sometimes paying $12K more for a vehicle with a better resale value ends up costing less overall. Edmunds has a good calculator that can help you, but every situation is different. My vehicle had an MSRP of $83K and I negotiated down to $63K. That was a dealer demo that is CPO so my B2B warranty ends up being 5.5 years with unlimited mileage and no deductible. Frankly the only way I’d buy a BMW.

My rule is if you can finance for 5 years with nothing down and never be upside down, then you’ve bought well. I just put our 2020 BMW X7 through Carvana for laughs and they offered me $65K. So in essence I drove the vehicle for free for the last 3 months.
 
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