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I use Motul. I know is overkil but I like my piece of mind. Also put in premium gas. Sleep well at night.
Not only are you wasting money on premium fuel you could be contributing to carbon buildup on the piston. Premium fuel burns slower, that's right slower, unburned fuel can carbon up your engine.

Don't believe me. Look up it up!


Rayjoe
 
To go back to the original question, the only way to know what oil your dealer used for the complementary oil changes would be to be in the shop watching them pour it in, and looking at the container it comes out of. Sorry to say - just because the receipt says they used 5-30 synthetic doesn't mean that is what is in your motor.

At the end of the day, it probably doesn't matter too much. As long as regular changes are made, and you use good quality oil after the complementary ones are done, you will likely get good long life from your engine.
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
To go back to the original question, the only way to know what oil your dealer used for the complementary oil changes would be to be in the shop watching them pour it in, and looking at the container it comes out of. Sorry to say - just because the receipt says they used 5-30 synthetic doesn't mean that is what is in your motor.

At the end of the day, it probably doesn't matter too much. As long as regular changes are made, and you use good quality oil after the complementary ones are done, you will likely get good long life from your engine.
Thank you
 
To go back to the original question, the only way to know what oil your dealer used for the complementary oil changes would be to be in the shop watching them pour it in, and looking at the container it comes out of. Sorry to say - just because the receipt says they used 5-30 synthetic doesn't mean that is what is in your motor.
Even then there is no guarantee. Most dealers are going to have it piped in from a bulk tank. All you will see is the operator pumping it in with a hose and nozzle, much like you do filling up your gas tank.
 
I had my dealer perform my 2025 Palisade Caligraphy's first oil change. Brought my own Amsoil 5-30
Signature Series....had the Hyundai stock oil filter installed. No problems from my dealership.

Not knowing what Hyundai had installed from the factory....being from the old school mindset....
got rid of the factory oil along with whatever break in wear metals might be in the oil pan at 1084 miles.

Hyundai uses Quaker State synthetic which is not a full synthetic but rather a blend better known as
a para synthetic...which will not hold up to stress that the Palisade gdi v6 place on the oil

A youtube channel known as I do cars tears down blown engine to see what exactly caused engine
failure. On his channel he has done numerous Hyundai Kia Theta engines plus the gdi 3.8 liter v6.
The common point of failure has to do with the previous owner not following the strict oil maintenance.
Perhaps even using crud oil. The amount of varnish with sludge in the oil pan is flat out disgusting.
Clogged piston oil control rings is another big factor.

For the most part engine failures could have been totally avoided is the conclusion given by the
I Do Cars host.

Take some time to check out his channel.

Best wishes y'all
 
Not only are you wasting money on premium fuel you could be contributing to carbon buildup on the piston. Premium fuel burns slower, that's right slower, unburned fuel can carbon up your engine.

Don't believe me. Look up it up!


Rayjoe
I use premium Chevron in both the Hyundai and my Kawasaki Ninja 1400. I used premium in our Lexus LS430 also. My son works for an oil company and I use the best of the best. If premium burns slower and causes issues, please provide the proof. I just disagree.
 
I use premium Chevron in both the Hyundai and my Kawasaki Ninja 1400. I used premium in our Lexus LS430 also. My son works for an oil company and I use the best of the best. If premium burns slower and causes issues, please provide the proof. I just disagree.
Premium fuel is designed for high compression motors, the higher the octane number the slower it will burn. It won't hurt your engine to use it but it is a waste of money to buy it. If you want to use a good clean burning fuel for your Palisade make sure to use "Top Tier" fuels. There is a detergent additive in the fuel to clean your valves as it burns.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Premium fuel is designed for
Premium fuel is designed for high compression motors, the higher the octane number the slower it will burn. It won't hurt your engine to use it but it is a waste of money to buy it. If you want to use a good clean burning fuel for your Palisade make sure to use "Top Tier" fuels. There is a detergent additive in the fuel to clean your valves as it burns. Top Tier Shell 93 Premium might have a higher detergent level than their 87 regular gas.
 
Palisade has a 13.0:1 compression ration. My Kawasaki zx14r Ninja has 12.0:1 and 197 hp. All due respect I will use premium top tier Shell or Chevron gas. Better mileage, burn cleaner.
 
Palisade has a 13.0:1 compression ration. My Kawasaki zx14r Ninja has 12.0:1 and 197 hp. All due respect I will use premium top tier Shell or Chevron gas. Better mileage, burn cleaner.
I get where you are coming from, but you need to think about the new generation of engines out there today. The Palisade engine is one of modern design optimized for fuel economy and lower emissions
unlike the others you are comparing it to. It uses variable valve timing that produces viable compression as part of the Atkinson engine design. This along with precise fuel delivery via computer controlled direct injection effectively suppresses pre-ignition while providing improved fuel economy, performance, and lower emissions all on 87 octane. Other manufacturers are also producing high compression engines to get these benefits while using 87 octane. It's a technological miracle compared to days past!

Because the Palisade is not designed for premium fuel and does not automatically adjust for octane (as some engines do) you will not get any measurable or cost beneficial performance boost using premium, but will empty your wallet a lot faster. 😁 Some engines that require premium will adjust "down" to a lower octane to protect the engine in the case premium fuel is not available. My V8 Audi has an engine that does exactly that. Its designed for 91 octane--using 93 octane, which is the common premium here in the eastern US, provides no benefit as it does not adjust up, but it will adjust down to 87--the performance goes to crap, but it does not knock. (Yes, I did it once, but not intentionally!)
 
Count me among those whose dealer uses "5W-30 QS Full Syn"--Quaker State Full Synthetic, "full" if you don't want to quibble over feed stock. At least that's what the receipt says. Who know what it really is. So long as it's GF-6 full synthetic I'm OK with it. If I had to pick a preference among the many good options it would probably be the Valvoline.
 
, 100% Full Synthetic Oil does not break down as the Synthetic Blend does that is petroleum based. Thus it gives you better protection and longer life.
AMSOIL products are primarily classified as 100% full synthetic, meaning they are not petroleum-based, but rather made from synthetic base oils and chemicals.
Here's a more detailed explanation:
Synthetic Lubricants:
AMSOIL specializes in synthetic lubricants, which are engineered at a molecular level to offer superior performance and stability compared to conventional petroleum-based oils.
Synthetic Base Oils:
AMSOIL's products utilize synthetic base oils, which are manufactured to higher performance levels and chemically engineered to have a specific molecular composition.
Group III Base Oils:
While some formulations might utilize Group III base oils, which are derived from petroleum, AMSOIL's core products are designed to be 100% synthetic.
People are having oil consumption issues with their Palisades, and for a few dollars more, I would prefer not to join them by constantly having to add oil or having my engin replaced and experiencing the down time.
On the other hand, Amsoil's web site offers the following:

"Some motor oils made from Group III oils can outperform some Group IV motor oils. That’s because the final formulation is a function of the base oils and additives working in tandem. Like base oils, additives come in a range of qualities. So you could have a Group III oil with top-shelf anti-wear, anti-oxidant and other additives that outperforms a Group IV motor oil, even though Group IV base oils provide more pronounced benefits than Group III base oils. The point is, a motor oil can’t be judged solely by its base oils – you need to take the entire formulation into account."
 
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