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Wind noise at driver's seat from 60+ mph

128K views 305 replies 79 participants last post by  jason8887 
#1 ·
Hi, just found this forum and saw people posting about noise issues and though I'd post mine as well in case someone else has the same problem.

I have an AWD Limited 2020 model.

Just recently, maybe in the last couple of weeks, whenever I hit ~63/65 mph, it starts to sound something like being in a wind tunnel or just a dull, echo-y noise. What I noticed, though, is that if it put my arm up against the door, the leather area up by the window, and press into it, the noise stops. Pull my arm away, noise happens again.

I left my Palisade at the dealer so they could look it over and after three days in the shop the only they said they didn't notice anything. A couple days later, driving down the interstate in my area, the wind sound is back, and very, very loud. Taking back into shop today.

If anyone else has experienced this, let me know.

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
There's a TSB regarding this, and also a 10-page thread discussion:
 
#5 ·
Just got a call from dealership service department; they said they were able to successfully recreate the noise issue. They've ordered a new "Front Window Run Channel" to replace a "mal-fitted" installed one. So here's to seeing if that fixes things. Part should be delivered in the next day or two.
 
#6 ·
Did they happen to tell you what the part number is? I understand that the part(s) needed for the Wind Noise TSB are back ordered. May take quite a while to receive, but I hope this report is not true, and in fact arrives in a few days and fixes your issue.
 
#11 ·
My SEL is Oct 10 2019 build and it has the wind noise at 60mph or above, at least on driver's side, but i haven't sat on passengerr side yet at highway speed. It is not the high pitched whistle that was on a loaner I had for a few days while waitng for mine to be delivered from another dealer. Dealer has ordered the window trim seal.
 
#16 ·
Hi, just found this forum and saw people posting about noise issues and though I'd post mine as well in case someone else has the same problem.

I have an AWD Limited 2020 model.

Just recently, maybe in the last couple of weeks, whenever I hit ~63/65 mph, it starts to sound something like being in a wind tunnel or just a dull, echo-y noise. What I noticed, though, is that if it put my arm up against the door, the leather area up by the window, and press into it, the noise stops. Pull my arm away, noise happens again.

I left my Palisade at the dealer so they could look it over and after three days in the shop the only they said they didn't notice anything. A couple days later, driving down the interstate in my area, the wind sound is back, and very, very loud. Taking back into shop today.

If anyone else has experienced this, let me know.

Thanks!
After reading this thread I was curious if my Palisade would have this defect; It did not. I’ve only driven below 70 MPH and have not experienced any wind noise at the driver’s door. The defect may have perhaps been corrected during the assembly of my Palisade, after the TSB was released.
 
#18 ·
Here is the fix for the wind noise, no TSB, or parts replacement necessary. Stop the dealers and their incompetent service departments from wasting your valuable time. I used a flexible foam/caulk filler purchased from Home Depot for $ 2.98, took no more than 10 minutes to fix BOTH driver and passenger door window noise/whistle. The product is Frost King grey poly foam caulk saver. It's a 3/8 in round foam strip, 20 ft in length.

From the inside of the driver's door window there is a Black rubber seal/gasket that runs the entire length of the window from the A pillar, near the mirror to the B pillar near the door frame next to the drivers seat. With the window closed, and from inside the vehicle, if you lightly pull the rubber gasket towards you away from window you can create a small area of separation to insert the foam. There is a channel that runs inside gasket around the entire length of the window that is hollow .The 3/8 foam fits PERFECTLY within that gap. Insert the foam into the channel and push the gasket back into place. The foam will not be visible and the gasket will be deformed in any way. Open the window and go to the outside of the vehicle. Just on the OUTSIDE of the window channel/felt lining there is another hollow channel in the door frame surrounding the window from the A pillar to the B pillar. Push the foam caulk saver firmly into the channel from one end to the other. In this step you can apply more pressure because your pushing directly into the metal frame. If done correctly the foam isn't noticeable on the outside of the window. On the inside of the window it is hidden under the rubber gasket. I applied the foam in this manner to BOTH driver and PASSENGER front windows. Not only did this COMPLETELY stop the whistling noise it reduced the outside road noise considerably. The cabin is NOTICEABLY more quiet, and you can hear the difference in the air pressure when closing the doors. Sorry that pictures came out too dark for me to post but hopefully this description is detailed enough to follow. Trust me, you will notice the difference!
 
#20 ·
Here is the fix for the wind noise, no TSB, or parts replacement necessary. Stop the dealers and their incompetent service departments from wasting your valuable time. I used a flexible foam/caulk filler purchased from Home Depot for $ 2.98, took no more than 10 minutes to fix BOTH driver and passenger door window noise/whistle. The product is Frost King grey poly foam caulk saver. It's a 3/8 in round foam strip, 20 ft in length.

From the inside of the driver's door window there is a Black rubber seal/gasket that runs the entire length of the window from the A pillar, near the mirror to the B pillar near the door frame next to the drivers seat. With the window closed, and from inside the vehicle, if you lightly pull the rubber gasket towards you away from window you can create a small area of separation to insert the foam. There is a channel that runs inside gasket around the entire length of the window that is hollow .The 3/8 foam fits PERFECTLY within that gap. Insert the foam into the channel and push the gasket back into place. The foam will not be visible and the gasket will be deformed in any way. Open the window and go to the outside of the vehicle. Just on the OUTSIDE of the window channel/felt lining there is another hollow channel in the door frame surrounding the window from the A pillar to the B pillar. Push the foam caulk saver firmly into the channel from one end to the other. In this step you can apply more pressure because your pushing directly into the metal frame. If done correctly the foam isn't noticeable on the outside of the window. On the inside of the window it is hidden under the rubber gasket. I applied the foam in this manner to BOTH driver and PASSENGER front windows. Not only did this COMPLETELY stop the whistling noise it reduced the outside road noise considerably. The cabin is NOTICEABLY more quiet, and you can hear the difference in the air pressure when closing the doors. Sorry that pictures came out too dark for me to post but hopefully this description is detailed enough to follow. Trust me, you will notice the difference!
pictures? I don’t see them
 
#28 ·
No pun intended but the Frost King foam sealed the deal for me...I'd been to the dealer no less than 5 times and when they told me they were ordering a replacement mirror I'd had enough! I'm not a service tech but it was obvious to me that the window seal/gasket isn't thick/firm enough and allows air to be pushed through when air pressure is increased at certain speeds. I'm not saying that the recommended TSB fixes won't work, but the service departments are reimbursed by Hyundai for the repairs so throwing parts and labor at the problem is profitable for them. Truthfully, I figured this out when on the 3rd visit when I presented the TSB and the dealer refused to perform the work actually SAYING that Hyundai might not reimburse them for the work unless they identified WHICH of the potential problems listed in the TSB was the cause, so yes, I had to keep bringing it back until they could replicate the problem. On the last visit they kept the vehicle two days, then said they determined the mirror need to be replaced but was on back order. My guess is that the mirror is the most expensive part to replace and repair of all the steps listed. I'm sure just a coincidence, right? I just hate seeing others get jerked around and have their valuable time wasted because Hyundai Motors and their dealers don't seem to be able to fix this problem consistently and in short order. I just took a chance and thought outside the box and it works flawlessly, so far so good, AND it reduced the road noise CONSIDERABLY. I'll see if I have one or two pics that I can post, but they literally came out too dark. Did this late night in the garage, 60 watt bulb only provides so much light.
 
#29 ·
the dealerships around me are not that good. This is the reason I agree with ATLPal that I need to take this into my own hands. It seems like they waste so much time.

Yes, Please. maybe the flash on your phone camera can help or try taking some pics during the day time. Anything might help me fix it. I don't even want to talk to some of these "technicians" anymore.
 
#30 ·
I think I read somewhere that the side view mirror could cause wind/whistle noise when incorrectly installed by some sort of damage or folding of the gasket under the mirror. Replacing the entire mirror means that the dealer will have to paint it. This non-factory paint job may be problematic in the future.
 
#32 ·
Here are some pics. Holding open rubber seal/gasket with screwdriver INSIDE the driver side door. The foam has been inserted into the channel and you cannot see it. The rubber seal goes back into place. I held open the seal using my fingers and inserted foam. Only light pressure needed. Insert foam inside the entire seal from A pillar to B pillar.

Another pic shows foam at the top of the window, halfway completed. Foam is only visible because I hadn't yet completely pushed it into the channel yet.

Picture of foam unraveled sitting on table to show color and thickness.
 

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#35 ·
Here are some pics. Holding open rubber seal/gasket with screwdriver INSIDE the driver side door. The foam has been inserted into the channel and you cannot see it. The rubber seal goes back into place. I held open the seal using my fingers and inserted foam. Only light pressure needed. Insert foam inside the entire seal from A pillar to B pillar.

Another pic shows foam at the top of the window, halfway completed. Foam is only visible because I hadn't yet completely pushed it into the channel yet.

Picture of foam unraveled sitting on table to show color and thickness.
In the middle picture (the one showing the screwdriver) has the trim panel been removed from the inside top of the door in front of the glass window? My Palisade doesn't look anything like what you posted. I can't even see the rubber window seal with the window raised, never mind trying to insert the foam seal.
Regarding from the outside with the window down, does that channel go from the bottom of the window by the A pillar and then up and across the top of the frame and down the other side by the B pillar? So that in the end you have added the foam filler to the inside area of the glass run? No change done to the outside area of the run that rests against the glass when the window is up. I have attached a few pictures also. Not neatly renamed like yours.
 

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#36 ·
Here are several more pics. Hopefully these are better.

With driver door open you can see above the arm rest in the bottom left corner of the window I have pulled open the rubber seal slightly and inserted foam. The other pictures show how the foam is inserted all the way from the bottom left corner of the window/seal over to the bottom right inside the window seal. I left the foam visible so you can see how to inset, but there is a hollow channel in the seal that you can completely push the foam into and it will be unseen. The rubber seal returns to its original position and isn't disturbed in any way. Let me know if these help.
 

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#46 ·
I hope the video clears this up. It appears from the original writeup of this proposed fix by ATLPal that this is a two step process. Step 1 from inside with the window up and step 2 from outside with the window down.

Step 1 "From the inside of the driver's door window there is a Black rubber seal/gasket that runs the entire length of the window from the A pillar, near the mirror to the B pillar near the door frame next to the drivers seat. With the window closed, and from inside the vehicle, if you lightly pull the rubber gasket towards you away from window you can create a small area of separation to insert the foam. There is a channel that runs inside gasket around the entire length of the window that is hollow .The 3/8 foam fits PERFECTLY within that gap. Insert the foam into the channel and push the gasket back into place. The foam will not be visible and the gasket will be deformed in any way. "

I took this to mean that the foam filler was being inserted into a channel that runs across the bottom area of the window between pillar A and pillar B. But could not find this on my Palisade.

Step 2 "Open the window and go to the outside of the vehicle. Just on the OUTSIDE of the window channel/felt lining there is another hollow channel in the door frame surrounding the window from the A pillar to the B pillar. Push the foam caulk saver firmly into the channel from one end to the other. In this step you can apply more pressure because your pushing directly into the metal frame. If done correctly the foam isn't noticeable on the outside of the window."

So I wasn't sure where this channel was and is why I posted my reply in post # 35 with pictures.
Regarding from the outside with the window down, does that channel go from the bottom of the window by the A pillar and then up and across the top of the frame and down the other side by the B pillar?

ATLP, Sorry for being such a dummy and failing to understand your procedure. No rush on any video, at least for me, as I am going to let the dealer take a stab at their fix first. And it won't be for another week or so if they get the part soon.
 
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