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if you roll the windows all the way down, you will have two window sweeps you can foam. I put 1/4 inch foam rope in the outside channel (but I don't think that did much to help the wind whistle), and I put 3/8 inch foam rope in the inside channel.
The inside (interior) channel you can see if you look straight down from the top of the door (vertically look down on top of the window pane. You'll see there is a rubber sweep channel just below the top of the door panel. I used a plastic "spudger" to stuff the rope into the channel. Since the window sweep is a "V" shaped channel, there is no fear of stuffing the foam into the door cavity itself.
 

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if you roll the windows all the way down, you will have two window sweeps you can foam. I put 1/4 inch foam rope in the outside channel (but I don't think that did much to help the wind whistle), and I put 3/8 inch foam rope in the inside channel.
The inside (interior) channel you can see if you look straight down from the top of the door (vertically look down on top of the window pane. You'll see there is a rubber sweep channel just below the top of the door panel. I used a plastic "spudger" to stuff the rope into the channel. Since the window sweep is a "V" shaped channel, there is no fear of stuffing the foam into the door cavity itself.
If it’s not too much to ask would you be able to take a pic and upload it if where you put the foam?
 

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So the extra piece i stuffed in the lower right corner made things worse surprisingly

I pulled that small piece and I’ll just run it with rope in the V channel

I’ll post a pic later when I’m back around the car
 

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So the extra piece i stuffed in the lower right corner made things worse surprisingly

I pulled that small piece and I’ll just run it with rope in the V channel

I’ll post a pic later when I’m back around the car
Yeah when I tried putting the 3/8 rope inside that channel that goes around the window as others have stated only made the whistle worse and louder. So I like to see where in the window your inserting the rope exactly
 

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sorry my picture posted twice.

the rope is inserted in the channel on the "lower" side of the glass (the car's interior). This is the same channel where Hyundai placed a piece of foam at the leading edge of the channel near the speaker.

So this one piece of foam rope helped quell the noise which used to start at 60mph and pushed the speed up to 70mph before the whistle returned, but quieter. I then decided since that seemed to help I would cram another 1/2 inch length of rope into the small gap at the base of where the metal frame goes into the door which is the area on the far lower right hand corner of my photo. But that made the whistle audible at 40mph! WTH? So I have pulled out that small 1/2 piece I crammed in there and I'll try to just run with the rope in the V channel again. I am "lucky" and have no wind noise if I run with the Recirc in the closed position so I'm fine with that too.
 

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sorry my picture posted twice.

the rope is inserted in the channel on the "lower" side of the glass (the car's interior). This is the same channel where Hyundai placed a piece of foam at the leading edge of the channel near the speaker.

So this one piece of foam rope helped quell the noise which used to start at 60mph and pushed the speed up to 70mph before the whistle returned, but quieter. I then decided since that seemed to help I would cram another 1/2 inch length of rope into the small gap at the base of where the metal frame goes into the door which is the area on the far lower right hand corner of my photo. But that made the whistle audible at 40mph! WTH? So I have pulled out that small 1/2 piece I crammed in there and I'll try to just run with the rope in the V channel again. I am "lucky" and have no wind noise if I run with the Recirc in the closed position so I'm fine with that too.
Thanks for the pic and clarification. I’ll see if it works for me. We can all drive with the recirc mode on with no noise but once it gets cold out and the heat is on, I won’t have recirc on and the noise will continue so hopefully it can get fixed by then
 

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took an 8 hour trip with speeds up to 90mph. Steady cruising between 75 to 85 with the majority of the hours at 80mph. Running with Recirc open and closed and experienced no whistling, so whatever I did has eliminated the slight wind whistle. Happy camper I am

considering I had a slight whistle at 70mph, and then made that one bad adjustment causing the whistle to be present at 40mph, and now having removed that and readjusted the long strand of rope in the "v channel," I will conclude that my whistling has been eliminated thanks to the rope in the V channel and specifically the way I inserted it into the extreme right hand edge in my picture (the area where the V channel window sweep meets the window frame and glass edge.
 

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I don’t know that anyone did anything for me. What I did for my wife is put her in her dream vehicle. I tried to do that with the Palisade, but it didn’t work out for us. The X7 was my apology to my wife for talking her into the Palisade.

Hello there,
I'm in the same situation like everyone here with the wind noise and I am done with it. I am seriously considering the BMW X7 but I will really appreciate it if you help me with two questions:
1. Is it really sound proof like 0% wind noise or any noise for what it's worth if I'm gonna pay that amount of money?
2. Would you please tell me if the color your got for your wife is arctic gray or dark graphite metallic?
Thanks so much!
 

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1) 100% gone, no noise, vault quiet. Just go drive one. Candidly the Lincoln Aviator was very, very close to the X7 as well.

2) Arctic gray is the color. Looks black or blue in most light.

I would try raggedy’s fix though. No need to take the depreciation hit if you can help it.
 

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1) 100% gone, no noise, vault quiet. Just go drive one. Candidly the Lincoln Aviator was very, very close to the X7 as well.

2) Arctic gray is the color. Looks black or blue in most light.

I would try raggedy’s fix though. No need to take the depreciation hit if you can help it.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I really appreciate it! Would you please refer me to what you mean by the raggedy’s fix? Also, are there any solutions for the odd smell?
i went ahead and drove the X7 and it has some wind noise no whistling but wind, but with the smell and me not linking the front grill anymore (thought I would dig the limited), I am considering my options.
 

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@raggedy1 can best explain what he did. As for the smell, others have undertaken some pretty drastic solutions. I’d leave that one to the dealer as I’m not about to take a brand new car apart.
 

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I followed the suggestions from others posted earlier in this thread (or other threads).

First off, if you have wind buffeting like CVP33 had, then I wouldn't bother trying to fix it with foam rope. Wind buffeting is an issue I would force my dealer to handle, and if they can't fix it then go down the Lemon Law road.

Ok, so I bought this:


the 3/8 diameter rope is the first one I bought, but to do a full treatment I ended up also buying the 1/4" diameter rope.

I did my treatment in 3 steps to see what could solve my wind whistling issue. I had a slight wind whistle at times as low as 15mph (crosswinds) and whistling at 60mph+. My wind issues were only present with the HVAC in the open position (fresh air coming in).

Also, before I go on, regardless of whether any Palisade owners have wind problems or not, the Palisade is NOT vault quiet or a deprivation chamber. It is a large mid-size SUV and you will feel the road and hear some wind around the mirrors and pillars. It is every bit as quiet and smooth as its direct competition (CX-9, Highlander, MDX, Ascent).

Step 1: 3/8 " rope into the interior window channel that runs from the A pillar to the B pillar (up and over the window). I started at the base of the B pillar and inserted the foam rope and fed it into this channel all the way until I reached the A pillar. I cut off enough rope at the end to ensure I stuffed an extra 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch rope down into the base of the channel. The rope in this channel causes the rubber seal to bulge out, creating a tighter seal against the glass. Admittedly, this did not solve my wind whistle.

Step 2: 1/4" foam rope into the outside/exterior window "sweep." This is the rubber piece at the base of the window/top of the door. Roll the window glass all the way down and you'll be able to see that the exterior window sweep can be split apart and the 1/4" rope can be inserted between the two rubber sweeps. Cut enough to ensure there is rope inserted the full length of the this window sweep. This helps create a tighter seal on the exterior side of the glass. For me this did not solve my wind whistle.

Step 3: 3/8" foam rope inserted into the interior window sweep. This rubber sweep/seal is visible when you roll the glass all the way down into the door. Look from the top and you'll see the "V shaped" channel sweep. I installed the foam rope into this channel. There is more tension on the foam rope on the B pillar end of the channel then there is near the A pillar. Also, at the base of the A pillar, in this window sweep channel, you may find a piece of black foam that dealer or the port had installed trying to quell the wind noise issues. My initial installation did not stop my wind whistle, but it did make it so that my wind whistle was only present at 70mph+, which to me signaled that I might have found the cause of my problem since the whistle used to be present at 60mph+. So I tackled this area with more foam and inserted a 1/2" piece into the gap at the base of the B pillar where it goes into the door. I forced the foam under the door panel thinking this small area could be a source of air escaping, thus creating a whistle.

Wrong! having this extra 1/2" piece closing off the base of the B pillar made my whistle present at 40mph+.

So I removed the 1/2" piece and then fiddled with the 3/8" foam rope I had inserted into the interior window sweep. Using my plastic "spudger" I made sure I had a really tight seal at the end of the channel where the "V channel window sweep" ends into the B pillar. Voila! No more wind whistle!

I tested this over the past few days at speeds up to 95mph with the HVAC in the open position. No wind whistle. There is always more wind noise with the HVAC open compared to closed, but I find this is the same in all cars. Cars always run quieter when the HVAC is in Recirc Mode since no fresh air is being allowed/rammed into the passenger cabinet.

If you're going to try this "fix," then have a plastic spudger at hand to push the foam into place. The channels are tight and you don't want to use a metal tool to push the foam.

So I am completely happy with my wind noise fix and have no more whistle! Two months ago I had to have the local dealer fix my wheel alignment and I had mentioned the wind whistle. The manager told me they would replace the window seals, even though the TSB has been pulled. I didn't take him up on the offer since I had heard it fixed the issue for some, but made the issue worse for others since they haven't redesigned the seal from the original design. So dealers are still willing to try to tackle the wind noise problems, but I fixed it for myself.
 

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I followed the suggestions from others posted earlier in this thread (or other threads).

First off, if you have wind buffeting like CVP33 had, then I wouldn't bother trying to fix it with foam rope. Wind buffeting is an issue I would force my dealer to handle, and if they can't fix it then go down the Lemon Law road.

Ok, so I bought this:


the 3/8 diameter rope is the first one I bought, but to do a full treatment I ended up also buying the 1/4" diameter rope.

I did my treatment in 3 steps to see what could solve my wind whistling issue. I had a slight wind whistle at times as low as 15mph (crosswinds) and whistling at 60mph+. My wind issues were only present with the HVAC in the open position (fresh air coming in).

Also, before I go on, regardless of whether any Palisade owners have wind problems or not, the Palisade is NOT vault quiet or a deprivation chamber. It is a large mid-size SUV and you will feel the road and hear some wind around the mirrors and pillars. It is every bit as quiet and smooth as its direct competition (CX-9, Highlander, MDX, Ascent).

Step 1: 3/8 " rope into the interior window channel that runs from the A pillar to the B pillar (up and over the window). I started at the base of the B pillar and inserted the foam rope and fed it into this channel all the way until I reached the A pillar. I cut off enough rope at the end to ensure I stuffed an extra 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch rope down into the base of the channel. The rope in this channel causes the rubber seal to bulge out, creating a tighter seal against the glass. Admittedly, this did not solve my wind whistle.

Step 2: 1/4" foam rope into the outside/exterior window "sweep." This is the rubber piece at the base of the window/top of the door. Roll the window glass all the way down and you'll be able to see that the exterior window sweep can be split apart and the 1/4" rope can be inserted between the two rubber sweeps. Cut enough to ensure there is rope inserted the full length of the this window sweep. This helps create a tighter seal on the exterior side of the glass. For me this did not solve my wind whistle.

Step 3: 3/8" foam rope inserted into the interior window sweep. This rubber sweep/seal is visible when you roll the glass all the way down into the door. Look from the top and you'll see the "V shaped" channel sweep. I installed the foam rope into this channel. There is more tension on the foam rope on the B pillar end of the channel then there is near the A pillar. Also, at the base of the A pillar, in this window sweep channel, you may find a piece of black foam that dealer or the port had installed trying to quell the wind noise issues. My initial installation did not stop my wind whistle, but it did make it so that my wind whistle was only present at 70mph+, which to me signaled that I might have found the cause of my problem since the whistle used to be present at 60mph+. So I tackled this area with more foam and inserted a 1/2" piece into the gap at the base of the B pillar where it goes into the door. I forced the foam under the door panel thinking this small area could be a source of air escaping, thus creating a whistle.

Wrong! having this extra 1/2" piece closing off the base of the B pillar made my whistle present at 40mph+.

So I removed the 1/2" piece and then fiddled with the 3/8" foam rope I had inserted into the interior window sweep. Using my plastic "spudger" I made sure I had a really tight seal at the end of the channel where the "V channel window sweep" ends into the B pillar. Voila! No more wind whistle!

I tested this over the past few days at speeds up to 95mph with the HVAC in the open position. No wind whistle. There is always more wind noise with the HVAC open compared to closed, but I find this is the same in all cars. Cars always run quieter when the HVAC is in Recirc Mode since no fresh air is being allowed/rammed into the passenger cabinet.

If you're going to try this "fix," then have a plastic spudger at hand to push the foam into place. The channels are tight and you don't want to use a metal tool to push the foam.

So I am completely happy with my wind noise fix and have no more whistle! Two months ago I had to have the local dealer fix my wheel alignment and I had mentioned the wind whistle. The manager told me they would replace the window seals, even though the TSB has been pulled. I didn't take him up on the offer since I had heard it fixed the issue for some, but made the issue worse for others since they haven't redesigned the seal from the original design. So dealers are still willing to try to tackle the wind noise problems, but I fixed it for myself.
Hey wanted to say thanks for your suggestion. Stuffing the 3/8 cord into the inner channel where that little foam piece was solved my whistle noise. I still get wind noise but I can live with it. My main concern was the whistle. Now that I have this fix installed, I do still have an appointment with the dealer on aug 24 where they stated they will replace the window seals along with readjusting the window regulator which creates a tighter seal against the window. They stated they have fixed this issue for other customers in the past. Should I still have it looked at you think? What you said about how it could be worse scares me
 

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Ragetty, You say "Also, at the base of the A pillar, in this window sweep channel, you may find a piece of black foam that the dealer or the port had installed trying to quell the wind noise issues." but didn't say if you removed the black foam or laid rope on top of it to the end of the V channel or what?
 

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Ragetty, You say "Also, at the base of the A pillar, in this window sweep channel, you may find a piece of black foam that the dealer or the port had installed trying to quell the wind noise issues." but didn't say if you removed the black foam or laid rope on top of it to the end of the V channel or what?
I left the port installed foam piece. I started my foam rope right after this black foam piece, but honestly I don't think that made the difference. The 3/8" foam rope doesn't sit in the front part of this channel very tightly. If I had a 1/2" foam rope for the front 10 inches of this channel I would have stuffed that into this area just to create a firm fit.

I believe the difference for my car was the interior V channel foam fit into the the rear half of this channel, where it fits very snugly, and specifically the area where the V channel ends near the B pillar where I stuffed the foam rope very tightly (using my plastic spudger).

ymmv, but I'm VERY happy with this fix.

Last time I drove from Norcal to Socal (an 8 hour drive with one gas stop), I told my wife I would NEVER drive this route again. That was before the Palisade and the driver assist features. Who would have known that being able to use a LKA, LFA, HDA and Adaptive Cruise would relieve so much stress and fatigue! It's actually an easy drive for me now and I don't mind it at all. hahaha
 

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Hey wanted to say thanks for your suggestion. Stuffing the 3/8 cord into the inner channel where that little foam piece was solved my whistle noise. I still get wind noise but I can live with it. My main concern was the whistle. Now that I have this fix installed, I do still have an appointment with the dealer on aug 24 where they stated they will replace the window seals along with readjusting the window regulator which creates a tighter seal against the window. They stated they have fixed this issue for other customers in the past. Should I still have it looked at you think? What you said about how it could be worse scares me
yeah, if you have wind noise like I do, it's perfectly normal wind noise. These cars at this price point are not sensory deprivation chambers. I would expect a Rolls Royce or Bentley to be completely void of any wind noise, but other than that I think some wind noise sound around the A pillar and mirrors is perfectly normal.

I'm glad to hear you were able to eliminate your wind whistle too. For me, I won't be letting a dealer replace my window seals in the hopes that things get quieter since I don't think it could actually get quieter at this point.
 

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go to post #32 and post #36 on this thread and you'll see the gray tubing pictures. That was step 1 for me, but use the foam rope/tube I linked instead of that gray stuff in the pictures.

For steps 2 and 3 for me, roll your windows down all the way into the door. You will see two rubber seal channels on each side of the window (exterior and interior). The interior window sweep is only visible if you peek down below the door panel level since it's recessed into the door. But looking down you'll see it. This interior channel is shaped like a V so the foam tubing will be pushed into this V channel.

For the exterior window sweep you'll see it's split, but if you split between the two edges of this exterior rubber window seal you'll see it's a single V channeled seal. The 1/4" foam rope can be installed inside this exterior window sweep.
 

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15B8C5BE-9EB2-4A40-9C67-97F0358B4A40.jpeg
I personally wouldn’t use a metal screwdriver to push the foam into place out of fear of tearing the rubber or scratching plastic or painted pieces.

this plastic spudger came with my silicone license plate frame and it works perfectly for this task.
 
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