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Are you using the same valve F-106S I had problem one time and called them and they sent me whet i needed it might be worth a call.
Yes, it's hitting the round part, where the lever is located at. What other parts could I possibly use? Thinking of just going with the F106SX as that should alleviate any issues.
 

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Yes, it's hitting the round part, where the lever is located at. What other parts could I possibly use? Thinking of just going with the F106SX as that should alleviate any issues.
I would give them a call 800 918-3406 and after looking at the posted pictures it sure looks very close to the pan like it would hit if it was turned and it sure looks like the F106SX would work.
 

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Yeah, I looked at those pictures too and was curious how he was able to get everything tight and snug without it hitting the pan. I tried to install it a couple different ways to no avail. I think I might have been able to force it and dent the pan a little but didn't want to risk it.
 

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Yeah, I looked at those pictures too and was curious how he was able to get everything tight and snug without it hitting the pan. I tried to install it a couple different ways to no avail. I think I might have been able to force it and dent the pan a little but didn't want to risk it.
You may have to force it on the last turn when it hit the pan. It won't dent or crack the oil pan.
 

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Yeah, I looked at those pictures too and was curious how he was able to get everything tight and snug without it hitting the pan. I tried to install it a couple different ways to no avail. I think I might have been able to force it and dent the pan a little but didn't want to risk it.
What did you end up doing? Did you install the valve?
 

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What did you end up doing? Did you install the valve?
Funny that you asked that!! I just got done installing the valve just now!! After taking what @onexcite mentioned I decided to give it another go to see how much force it actually takes to install it. I ended up draining the good oil into a clean drain pan so I could reuse it since it only had less than 100 miles on it :) It actually went on fairly easy and there was only some minor resistance while tightening it up on the oil pan. There is NO visible damage on either the pan or the valve and mine didn't end up in the same position as onexcite's did but I am happy with where it is at. Here are some pictures.

B7FBD39D-2462-4183-BD63-15568A52610D.jpeg 91062711-E766-4DE3-B5F3-15EBBE0E09D2.jpeg

I did change my oil only after about 1300 miles after I watched a video from South Main Auto on YouTube where he changed his oil on his new Kia Sedona at about the same milage and he cut apart his oil filter which showed a bunch of metal filings in the oil filter, he said it was cheap insurance which I agreed with. I did the same on my Palisade and found the same thing in the oil filter. Just FYI, the metal shavings in the filter are normal and should be expected after the original oil and filter are changed. Just something to keep in mind as I know it has been discussed here on the forum before and I think it just comes down to personal preference. I plan on changing my oil every 5000 miles going forward with Mobil 1.

As for the discussion on the panel that covers the oil pan and filter housing. I don't think it's that big of a deal as you are not changing the oil that often and it only takes less than 1 minute to remove it if you have an impact driver and a 10mm socket and a small flat tip screwdriver to remove to 2 clips and it might take 2 minutes to put it back in since you want to hand thread each bolt before putting the impact driver on it. I stop tightening as soon as I feel resistance or the impact starts engaging.
 

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Funny that you asked that!! I just got done installing the valve just now!! After taking what @onexcite mentioned I decided to give it another go to see how much force it actually takes to install it. I ended up draining the good oil into a clean drain pan so I could reuse it since it only had less than 100 miles on it :) It actually went on fairly easy and there was only some minor resistance while tightening it up on the oil pan. There is NO visible damage on either the pan or the valve and mine didn't end up in the same position as onexcite's did but I am happy with where it is at. Here are some pictures.

View attachment 1039 View attachment 1040

I did change my oil only after about 1300 miles after I watched a video from South Main Auto on YouTube where he changed his oil on his new Kia Sedona at about the same milage and he cut apart his oil filter which showed a bunch of metal filings in the oil filter, he said it was cheap insurance which I agreed with. I did the same on my Palisade and found the same thing in the oil filter. Just FYI, the metal shavings in the filter are normal and should be expected after the original oil and filter are changed. Just something to keep in mind as I know it has been discussed here on the forum before and I think it just comes down to personal preference. I plan on changing my oil every 5000 miles going forward with Mobil 1.

As for the discussion on the panel that covers the oil pan and filter housing. I don't think it's that big of a deal as you are not changing the oil that often and it only takes less than 1 minute to remove it if you have an impact driver and a 10mm socket and a small flat tip screwdriver to remove to 2 clips and it might take 2 minutes to put it back in since you want to hand thread each bolt before putting the impact driver on it. I stop tightening as soon as I feel resistance or the impact starts engaging.
I am torn between doing what you just did or the F106SX like in the other video from @Clemson
 

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A banjo fitting or internally relieved bolt comprises a perforated hollow bolt and spherical union for fluid transfer. They are commonly found in automotive fuel, motor oil and hydraulic systems . The name stems from the shape of the fitting, having a large circular section connected to a thinner pipe, generally similar and that is why it takes a little longer to drain. .
 

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Used fumoto F106n and ADL 106..the long adapter. This worked. Was a little tight around oil pan once it was almost all the way threaded on. It slightly skimmed the pan as it tightened all the way. Glad it is installed as this should wayyyyyyyyyy lessen the mess.

Also, you need an oil socket wrench of 27mm to take off filter. And remember to put rubber o ring back on so you dont create a super huge f-n mess like I did this morning.
 

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Used fumoto F106n and ADL 106..the long adapter. This worked. Was a little tight around oil pan once it was almost all the way threaded on. It slightly skimmed the pan as it tightened all the way. Glad it is installed as this should wayyyyyyyyyy lessen the mess.

Also, you need an oil socket wrench of 27mm to take off filter. And remember to put rubber o ring back on so you dont create a super huge f-n mess like I did this morning.
The mess i think we have all done something like that. I left the pan drain plug in and came back out and giant oil mess in garage cat litter works good to absorb the oil.
 

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Used fumoto F106n and ADL 106..the long adapter. This worked. Was a little tight around oil pan once it was almost all the way threaded on. It slightly skimmed the pan as it tightened all the way. Glad it is installed as this should wayyyyyyyyyy lessen the mess.

Also, you need an oil socket wrench of 27mm to take off filter. And remember to put rubber o ring back on so you dont create a super huge f-n mess like I did this morning.
How did you get the valve+adapter on? I tried this last weekend and the fumoto valve kept getting caught on the oil pan where the spring part is (the thing on the side that juts out with the spring clip to open and close the valve). If it was barely scraping it then i would have tried cranking it down, but it seemed to be full stop blocked from rotating. I was only able to rotate it on the threads maybe like 2-3 times so it was barely even on the pan yet. Do you have to install the adapter first and then screw on the valve? I had the two together already and was trying to rotate it together to screw it on. Ill admit that I didnt try putting in the adapter first and then screwing in the valve because it was really hot on that day I was doing the change and I needed to finish the job asap. I ended up replacing back the old drain plug for now and if there is a better way to install, ill do it on the next oil change.
 
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