[cmvachon]

no leave it wedged, it will be out of the way and ready to reattach to the regulator. There are some plugs that need to be seperated but they are obvious.

Is the outer skin inaccessible if you were to leave the window up and unscrew several of the bolts holding the black plastic panel on?

 

[kidhueyS]

In case you need help upgrading the horrible premium HK sound system. I may be able to help.

I hope you can continue to share your story and let me have something.

 

[R!CK]

I did some both ways. Wedging a piece of wood or whatever between the plastic panel and the door gives just enough room to get an arm or two up inside to put on a pre-cut dampener sheet and roll it out some. I used a 1' dowel piece to press hard to reach areas down. Could use whatever you have on hand. Wear long sleeves to avoid getting scratched up.
It was much easier with the window unbolted, much more room to move. Either way, the work is worthwhile in my opinion, bass tightens up nicely and cleans up the music. I like the sound of the door closing too.
I was shocked by the lack of factory dampening on the inner door skin. One short swipe of a brush on deadener. No wonder the door sounded like an old clunker before treatment. Pictures are before, driver's door and after kilsmat.

 

[Nolenski]

Seeing the many comments about the rigidity of the door skins; one solution I found by accident was when I installed the SportWing Body Side Moldings. These are solid, rigid moldings that added stiffness to that large piece of flat door skin right where it's needed. Granted, it is not quite as good as lining the door with dynamat (which I will also do after the weather allows and I upgrade my speakers), but it is a noticeable improvement and is far easier to install especially for those who feel challenged to remove the inner door panels.
I understand that some dislike the look of BSMs (me included) but personally, I dislike the look of a door ding even more! SportWing offers multiple styles and they're custom painted to match the exact color code of your Pali so they look like they came from the factory. Their customer service has been excellent (no I don't work there or receive any kickback!)

https://www.sportwing.com/index.php?route=product/catalog&ff1=10150&ff2=10550

 

[newpally]

I did some both ways. Wedging a piece of wood or whatever between the plastic panel and the door gives just enough room to get an arm or two up inside to put on a pre-cut dampener sheet and roll it out some. I used a 1' dowel piece to press hard to reach areas down. Could use whatever you have on hand. Wear long sleeves to avoid getting scratched up.
It was much easier with the window unbolted, much more room to move. Either way, the work is worthwhile in my opinion, bass tightens up nicely and cleans up the music. I like the sound of the door closing too.
I was shocked by the lack of factory dampening on the inner door skin. One short swipe of a brush on deadener. No wonder the door sounded like an old clunker before treatment. Pictures are before, driver's door and after kilsmat.

That is perfect, and exactly what I am hoping for from the work, thank you for confirming! I am totally thrown off by the sound of the door, and you saying an old clunker, thats it 100%. My doors shouldn't have a tinny echo when I open/close them. It sounds like a piece of sheet metal, with nothing in there, just like the old boat cars used to sound like.

 

[Jennifa]

In case you need help upgrading the horrible premium HK sound system. I may be able to help.

Help!!!! What a sad disappointment the sound quality is coming from my brand new Palisade Calligraphy.. not looking to go crazy , just wondering what could be done without ripping apart. Crutchfield had an amp and sub for model I have under the seat but there are air vents which don't look ideal for a place for this advertised sub/amp.
Any advice!? Please!! Any chance you're in PA? 😂 THANKS