[marklegcs]

Here is the pdf provided by Crutchfield for removing the panels, etc

 

[marklegcs]

What did you replace it with?

You can scroll up in the thread, all of the information is in there. Let me know if you need help with anything not listed.

 

[marklegcs]

Crutchfield just specified this equipment for me. $370.64. He stated that the system has enough power and the issue is the speakers. Sound correct?
108R6530CM Infinity Reference REF-6530CX 6-1/2" Component System
120SPHKC Metra Install Bay SPHKC Speaker Hardware Kit
541HKSB110 AI HKSB110 Hyundai/KIA SAP 6-1/2" and 6-3/4", select applications
108R6530CM Infinity Reference REF-6530CX 6-1/2" Component System
120SPHKC Metra Install Bay SPHKC Speaker Hardware Kit
541HKSB110 AI HKSB110 Hyundai/KIA SAP 6-1/2" and 6-3/4", select applications
120BKSTRAP Backstrap Universal
007CSW16 Crutchfield Speaker Wire 16 ga per foot
669PP502 Posi-Products Connector Kit 8 pieces for Car Speakers
007CPT3 Crutchfield CPT3 3-piece Trim Panel Tool Set

Those products are fine. I would get the 2 door sound deadening kit and use half per door (all 4). The doors skins rattle quite a bit. After you take the factory speaker out, deaden everything inside, as much as you can. Use the gaskets for the new ring mount. I should add too that the volume won't be as loud since the system is 2 ohm and the speakers are 4. Unless you really crank it, still should be loud enough though. I started the journey with similar replacements and was happy for the change in quality for the money and effort spent. You won't use the crossovers up front, that is wired active from the factory amp. For the tweeters, you want to cut the old plug off the factory tweeter with enough length to solder onto the new tweeter, then it's just plug and play. For the others speakers, you will cut the plug off and solder new ends with spade terminals to attach to the speaker. You will probably have to modify the sail panel a bit to get the tweeter to fit, I did. The new speaker rings will have a small slot to feed the new wire behind the ring to attach. Make sure you screw it down with the notch in the correct orientation to put the wires straight through. It's very easy takes less than an hour.

 

[marklegcs]

I'm now in the process of modifying the tweeter sail panels to point more on axis. I'll take advice from anyone that has done this. Almost ready for glazing and paint/covering

 

[Mariociri]

Here is the pdf provided by Crutchfield for removing the panels, etc

Wow. Thanks for all the info and the instructions. Just knowing the what’s and how’s helps no matter what I decide to do. I’m looking to do the minimum to get it set up so that I don’t need to crank it to 30 on the dial before I can even hear it. I don’t get how Hyundai could have missed this. I just want it louder.

 

[JR Weston FL]

In case you need help upgrading the horrible premium HK sound system. I may be able to help.

What Year and Model?
I have the 2023 Palisade Calligraphy and it sounds just OK. They sell it like it's some sort of Powerful system and frankly it gives HK a bad name. I was not impressed with Sound System especially since it's supposedly the Calligraphy.

 

[marklegcs]

What Year and Model?
I have the 2023 Palisade Calligraphy and it sounds just OK. They sell it like it's some sort of Powerful system and frankly it gives HK a bad name. I was not impressed with Sound System especially since it's supposedly the Calligraphy.

Mine is the 23 Calligraphy Emerald Green/Black

 

[Awer25]

Audio Control lc 5/1300 Amp $600
Audio Control DM 810 DSP $500
Audio Control ACM 4/300 Amp $350
Focal Flax Evo 3way component speakers $900
Focal mid bass woofers for rear fill $450
Kicker Q series 10" subwoofer $280
Sub box $85
Wire, fuses, connectors, etc $400
Sound deadening material $200
mini dsp rta fequency analyzer mic $120

Have done it all myself so far. I'm still not done. I have new A pillar trim pieces being delivered to mount the mid range speakers. Will be attempting to build pillar speaker pods.
youtube channels I have watched to learn and have asked questions: 5 star car stereo and pssound mainly.

I would imagine a shop would charge 3-5k for install

I used to do a lot of car audio upgrades in older vehicles, but the amount of speakers in the HK system confuses me on how to best upgrade.

Crutchfield says there's a woofer and tweeter in the rear door as well - if so, did you install two sets of 3-way component speakers, or did you just do woofers in the rear door? Also, are you using the front center speaker?

How are you setting up the two amps? I don't plan (yet) on a separate subwoofer b/c of the loss of interior space. Would I still need two amps, since I'd be running a component set in the front and possibly the rear, and also want rear fill? That seems like it would be more outputs than the 5/1300 amp could do. Alternatively, could I use something like the AudioControl D-6.1200 which would power 6 channels and includes a DSP? Space saving is important for me since I've already got a lot of stuff wired under the rear floor panel (mainly Whelen strobe lights/sirens) so if that would be about as good all in one box it would be nice.

 

[cmvachon]

Those products are fine. I would get the 2 door sound deadening kit and use half per door (all 4). The doors skins rattle quite a bit. After you take the factory speaker out, deaden everything inside, as much as you can. Use the gaskets for the new ring mount. I should add too that the volume won't be as loud since the system is 2 ohm and the speakers are 4. Unless you really crank it, still should be loud enough though. I started the journey with similar replacements and was happy for the change in quality for the money and effort spent. You won't use the crossovers up front, that is wired active from the factory amp. For the tweeters, you want to cut the old plug off the factory tweeter with enough length to solder onto the new tweeter, then it's just plug and play. For the others speakers, you will cut the plug off and solder new ends with spade terminals to attach to the speaker. You will probably have to modify the sail panel a bit to get the tweeter to fit, I did. The new speaker rings will have a small slot to feed the new wire behind the ring to attach. Make sure you screw it down with the notch in the correct orientation to put the wires straight through. It's very easy takes less than an hour.

I am looking at getting some infinity Kappa components for my 23 calligraphy with some sound deadening. I wanted to clarify about the crossover— I won’t need one for both front doors? When you say they are wired active from the factory amp does this negate the need for the crossover in the door? For the back doors though I DO need the new crossovers?

Infinity Kappa 603CF

Kappa Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Awer25]

I am looking at getting some infinity Kappa components for my 23 calligraphy with some sound deadening. I wanted to clarify about the crossover— I won’t need one for both front doors? When you say they are wired active from the factory amp does this negate the need for the crossover in the door? For the back doors though I DO need the new crossovers?

Infinity Kappa 603CF

Kappa Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

This is based on a '22 model: The factory amp has separate outputs to the front tweeter and to the door woofer. If you wire the tweeter and woofer to the amp separately with each going to its respective output, you wouldn't need another crossover.

From what OP posted, there is no separate channel for the rear door tweeter, so you'd run the single channel to each rear door going into the Infinity crossover, which then goes to the tweeter and woofer.

'22 Wiring guide is attached for reference.

 

[newpally]

For the Sound deadening, I got a Fabric kit from shark racing and have butyl on the way.

When you take off the door skin, there is no real access to the outer skin of the door. However I see bolts holding in all of the wiring, the additional framing etc. If I remove these bolts, will it get me to the outer skin which I can then cover in butyl? Because of the butyl's thinness I am guessing clearance with window shouldn't be an issue. My guess is that the outer skin is where all the resonance issues are and why the door itself sounds like a piece of sheet metal without any heft to it.

 

[cmvachon]

This is based on a '22 model: The factory amp has separate outputs to the front tweeter and to the door woofer. If you wire the tweeter and woofer to the amp separately with each going to its respective output, you wouldn't need another crossover.

From what OP posted, there is no separate channel for the rear door tweeter, so you'd run the single channel to each rear door going into the Infinity crossover, which then goes to the tweeter and woofer.

'22 Wiring guide is attached for reference.

23 calligraphy with HK—Given that the front door tweeter and woofer have dedicated wires to each, can I just use the woofer wire to go into a crossover then from the crossover into those 2 components? The factory tweeter wire would then be freed up and it could either be capped, OR I am wondering if I can use those wires to get signal to an underseat powered amp like the JBL nano. I would like to keep the factory sub still active and ADD a little extra underseat bass.

Given that I would be adding a powered amp, will this be safe to not draw power from the rest of the system? Can I use the old tweeter wires to get signal to a new sub?

JBL BassPro Nano

Compact powered subwoofer with 6"x8" sub and 100-watt amp

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Awer25]

23 calligraphy with HK—Given that the front door tweeter and woofer have dedicated wires to each, can I just use the woofer wire to go into a crossover then from the crossover into those 2 components? The factory tweeter wire would then be freed up and it could either be capped, OR I am wondering if I can use those wires to get signal to an underseat powered amp like the JBL nano. I would like to keep the factory sub still active and ADD a little extra underseat bass.

Given that I would be adding a powered amp, will this be safe to not draw power from the rest of the system? Can I use the old tweeter wires to get signal to a new sub?

JBL BassPro Nano

Compact powered subwoofer with 6"x8" sub and 100-watt amp

www.crutchfield.com

I don't know the answer to your question as to if just the woofer cable could be used, but my guess would be that the HK amp has a built-in crossover so that the woofer cable wouldn't be the full spectrum of frequencies. I'm interested in a response too, because otherwise I'm looking at an 8-channel amp.

 

[newpally]

My main reason for starting the project was the door panel rattle. The doors rattle quite a bit. If you change out the door speakers and sound deaden, you would be surprised. You could do that for under $500 quite easily. That's where I started then fell down the rabbit hole.

Those products are fine. I would get the 2 door sound deadening kit and use half per door (all 4). The doors skins rattle quite a bit. After you take the factory speaker out, deaden everything inside, as much as you can. Use the gaskets for the new ring mount. I should add too that the volume won't be as loud since the system is 2 ohm and the speakers are 4. Unless you really crank it, still should be loud enough though. I started the journey with similar replacements and was happy for the change in quality for the money and effort spent. You won't use the crossovers up front, that is wired active from the factory amp. For the tweeters, you want to cut the old plug off the factory tweeter with enough length to solder onto the new tweeter, then it's just plug and play. For the others speakers, you will cut the plug off and solder new ends with spade terminals to attach to the speaker. You will probably have to modify the sail panel a bit to get the tweeter to fit, I did. The new speaker rings will have a small slot to feed the new wire behind the ring to attach. Make sure you screw it down with the notch in the correct orientation to put the wires straight through. It's very easy takes less than an hour.

What did you deaden? I have the shark racing fabric kit on the way and butyl as well. The fabric backs up the existing fabric on the door panel. However for the butyl, what surface did you use it on? Since the door has a very hollow/ sheet metal vibration and feel to it, I think you would have to stick it directly to the outer skin, is that right?
it seems removing that wire harness to access the outer skin which is really a giant cover seems like it could be tricky.

 

[cmvachon]

I am wanting a relatively simple upgrade. I am starting with replacing door woofers and tweeters with JBL sq speakers and dynamat. When I called Crutchfield they advised I use a line output converter and add a 4 channe amp for the door speakers. They recommended the following:

AudioControl LC7i (Black)

6-channel line output converter with bass restoration — adds aftermarket subs and amps to a factory system

www.crutchfield.com

JL Audio JD400/4

JD Series 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4

www.crutchfield.com

has anyone installed the LC7i? I am a novice with this stuff. Would I simply remove the output wires that go to woofers and tweeters in the doors and connect them to the LOC —> amp —> doors. Do I just leave all the other output wires from factory amp to speakers (dash, surround speakers in rear)?
Any advice on how to tackle this would be great!

 

[cmvachon]

What did you deaden? I have the shark racing fabric kit on the way and butyl as well. The fabric backs up the existing fabric on the door panel. However for the butyl, what surface did you use it on? Since the door has a very hollow/ sheet metal vibration and feel to it, I think you would have to stick it directly to the outer skin, is that right?
it seems removing that wire harness to access the outer skin which is really a giant cover seems like it could be tricky.

Do you know if you can remove the black panel to get to the inner door cavity to put some sound deadening material?

 

[cmvachon]

Do you know if you can remove the black panel to get to the inner door cavity to put some sound deadening material?

 

[R!CK]

Yes there are some bolts around the edges. Leave the door release machanism alone it can be a problem. And do not take the window motor off. The regulator cable can come unspooled easily!. There is enough room to get your arms and product inside still to dampen the door skin. I did plug the outer panel's window switch plugs in to lower the glass and expose the bolts through tthe access holes, removing it , then the window glass bolts. A wedge in between the window and door skin will hold the window in place as you work. That gives much more access back there. Good luck.

 

[newpally]

You freakin’ rock. Service manual has a lot more pieces to remove.

so remove/wedge the window once it’s freed, through those access holes to the window mount bolts. Then remove (all?) of the outer rim of the bolts. Thats it and now the wire harness will flex enough to put the butyl on the outer skin?

 

[R!CK]

no leave it wedged, it will be out of the way and ready to reattach to the regulator. There are some plugs that need to be seperated but they are obvious.