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Having my first "complimentary" oil change tomorrow. I am only at the 4900 mile level, but I am leaving the area for a few months, and will reach 7500 miles when I am gone. Not sure what oil came with the car, but expect that during the so called "complimentary" maintenance of oil change, filter and tire rotation that I will be prompted to go with synthetic oil. What are the thoughts on synthetic at this point? Good way to go, or not necessary extra cost?
 

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I wouldn't pay up for it at the dealer. They will probably use bulk 5W-30, which is likely a semi-syn.

I keep my OCI's short after dealership changes, and use full syn when I change my own.
 

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2021 Hyundai Palisade SEL
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My dealer mentioned the Synthetic oil change was included in my maintenance.
 

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Still waiting for my Palisade to be delivered, so don't have it yet. What does the manual actually say regarding the oil to be used? Synthetic, or non-synthetic? Weight? Grade? 5W-30? SN?
Thanks!
 

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From my perspective using synthetic oil in automobiles is an not required in most cases. That is why it is rare to see the auto manufacturers recommend a synthetic-only grade of oil. If the engineers thought it was required, then it would be a requirement. Ipersonally use synthetic for my recreational engines such as my atv and outboards, and my outdoor yard equipment because these engines definitely face more extreme conditions than my automobiles. Being in Canada I have always followed the more frequent oil change frequency the manufacturer recommends and have never had engine or oil consumption issues,,,never.
I would likely use synthetic oils if I was typically hauling a trailer or exposing my vehicle’s engine to more challenging conditions.

As Palisade owners we need to be far more concerned about the potential carbon buildup on the intake valves due to use of Direct Gas Injection (GDI) fuel delivery. This tech definitely increases fuel efficiency however has well the known drawback of carbon buildup due to the absence of the fuel washing effect on the intake valves.
Just my 2 cents.
 

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2021 Calligraphy FWD due late April
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Synthetic oil is MUCH better for the engine, and it's so cheap nowadays (especially at Walmart), that is a no-brainer to use it IMO... if you care about your engine :). The main reason to use full synthetic oils (even the group IIIs, like Mobil1, which are not 100% synthetic) is they cling to metal parts, preventing cold-start engine wear (metal to metal contact), especially if you don't use your vehicle every day (which is my case). In addition, it's more resistant to viscosity breakdown, which starts happening almost right away with conventional oils. Not that important in Canada, but in hot climates like TX (where I live), it is. Having said that, using conventional oil, is not going to cause any engine issues. It's just like buying good vs bad food: that might not affect life expectancy, but it does affect health. Is it worth saving about 5 bucks per oil change? Not for me :).

I did my first oil change a little earlier than I typically do it (504 miles, vs 1K), due to a long trip, and it cost me less than $35 with an OEM oil filter, and Mobil1 0/30. Well, I paid $20 more for a GoldPlug MP-02 magnetic drain plug, but it'll last the life of the vehicle. I wouldn't trust a dealer using a good synthetic oil, but that's just me.
 

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Synthetic oil is MUCH better for the engine, and it's so cheap nowadays (especially at Walmart), that is a no-brainer to use it IMO... if you care about your engine :).
Same... Do it myself at home with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and it's super cheap. I have found that Amazon normally matches Walmart prices on the oil so If you're ever in a time crunch or your local Wally doesn't have it in stock, keep that in mind! I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I at least know my oil is changed the right way and with full synthetic oil.
 

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Synthetic oil is MUCH better for the engine, and it's so cheap nowadays (especially at Walmart), that is a no-brainer to use it IMO... if you care about your engine :). The main reason to use full synthetic oils (even the group IIIs, like Mobil1, which are not 100% synthetic) is they cling to metal parts, preventing cold-start engine wear (metal to metal contact), especially if you don't use your vehicle every day (which is my case). In addition, it's more resistant to viscosity breakdown, which starts happening almost right away with conventional oils. Not that important in Canada, but in hot climates like TX (where I live), it is. Having said that, using conventional oil, is not going to cause any engine issues. It's just like buying good vs bad food: that might not affect life expectancy, but it does affect health. Is it worth saving about 5 bucks per oil change? Not for me :).

I did my first oil change a little earlier than I typically do it (504 miles, vs 1K), due to a long trip, and it cost me less than $35 with an OEM oil filter, and Mobil1 0/30. Well, I paid $20 more for a GoldPlug MP-02 magnetic drain plug, but it'll last the life of the vehicle. I wouldn't trust a dealer using a good synthetic oil, but that's just me.
I definitely agree. Quoting you "Synthetic oil is MUCH better for the engine ". Especially for GDI engines. Most dealers use a "synthetic blend"... whatever that means.
 

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To the individuals who wrote the last 3 posts. I am not disputing the benefits of synthetic oil. As I have stated I use full synthetic on many of my engines. I am just saying that it is not necessary in all applications As long as the driving conditions and applicable maintenance schedule is followed there is no added benefit of full synthetic. Just unnecessary additional expense. If synthetic was required, the engineers of this engine would state it as a requirement. These are the true experts.

Also if cost doesn’t matter, why are you doing this job yourselves? I thoroughly enjoy working with my hands however gladly give this task to the dealership service department. Builds better relationships that ends up benefitting me in the long run.

brainer to use it IMO... if you care about your engine :).
I definitely care about my engines, and my track record speaks for itself.

conventional oil, is not going to cause any engine issues. It
sounds like you may have a history of engine problems. Anyway, I may choose to use a synthetic if my Palisade was typically exposed to extremely high or low temps. As I said, it is on a case by case basis.

Mobil1 0/30.
I see you are not following the recommended 5w30. That’s pretty light for your Texas summer heat Isn’t it? I definitely would not be going a viscosity level lower. In fact you may want buy some 5w30 to prove to Hyundai if engine problems occur. An Engine Warranty Claim may become a problem if you are not using the recommended viscosity. You may want to talk to your dealership service manager if you have questions about the correct oil to use on your Palisade
 

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There's no downside on using 0/30 vs 5/30, and most manufacturers are switching to it for that reason. And it's an approved replacement. The viscosity at operating temperature is the 30, which is the same on both. But 0w flows better than 5w when cold, so it will always start lubricating a cold engine quicker than 5w, even in summer. Remember the optimum oil operating temperature is 212-deg, so even at 90-deg, oil is still too thick to lubricate properly. Just like with synthetic vs regular oil, 0w is also always better than 5w, and that's why I use it :). But yes, the colder it is, the more difference a 0w vs 5w makes.

I have found that Amazon normally matches Walmart prices on the oil so If you're ever in a time crunch or your local Wally doesn't have it in stock, keep that in mind!
Hey, thanks for the tip; didn't know that. And yes, nobody at a dealer is going to let your engine drain for 1/2 to 1 hr until nothing comes out. And probably not use a torque wrench either. Heck, they don't even use a torque wrench for the wheels. That time they messed up my new Azera, they also tightened the wheel lug nuts to well over 150 ft/lbs. It took a lot more force to remove those, than my F-150's at 150 ft/lbs. Those 'free' services can get very expensive, so I never use them on my BMWs, etc., and won't use them on the Pali either. But to each his own :).
 

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Dealer told me that complementary oil change is at 7500 mile intervals +/- 1000 miles. So between 6500-8500, 14000-16000, etc. I've got a little less than 6000 miles and going on a trip, so I'll be paying for an early oil change, then get the complementary service around 8000 when I get back.
 
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