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I installed an aukey DR02 dashcam and it took me less than 15 minutes. I have a short video showing the connection. But it's too big to upload. Here are some pics. Iw oils say this is no way a professional job but it works for me.

I ran it through from the passenger side. Down the pillar and into the glove compartment and then plugged into the USB port. I did not have to remove any parts.
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Installed dashcam yesterday - pillar removal is same as my 2018 Elantra without the hidden screw to 'pre' release cover. You just pop off by hand from snaps holding in place at the upper portion then you must release the plastic clip by pressing down on the two tabs (see image below). Either you get a child to get their fingers in there or use some really skinny needle nose pliers. Once that is released you pull gently up and away to remove the A pillar cover. I have in past zip tied and used electrical tape to keep dashcam wiring from getting in way of airbag but in this case just wrapped it around existing electrical wiring running down A pillar. To complete wiring to fuse box you can remove side panel on dash by gently prying plastic panel away with either plastic lever or flat head screw driver wrapped on cloth so as not to scratch. The plastic panel is only held in place by snaps (think 3 or 4) and once you pop one section off the rest comes easy. From there you have access to screw to attach ground and can better route wiring.

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As far as which fuses to tap into my camera needs both a constant 12v power supply (VCC) and one that is only supplying 12v when vehicle is turned on (ACC). Using my volt meter found a spares for each. If you are looking for ACC I used the spare three over from bottom right and up one. If you are looking for VCC use the one 4 up from bottom right.

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happy hardwiring...
Followed your photos and watched the video to install a Roav A1 dashcam and it took maybe 15-20 mins so a pretty easy install. Thanks for the excellent photos! I installed the A1 since it was meant for an older car but I never got around to installing it on there and was interested in getting something newer for better resolution and night vision. Any recommendations?

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I ran it from the passengers side so I didn't have to open anything or pull out anything. Just had to run it from the glove compartment. My video shows the layout.

I will upload a couple of videos showing the quality if the Aukey DR02 during the day and night. It cost around $50 total when on sale.
 

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anyone have luck with an OBD-II power source? I have a Blackvue Dash Cam that I want to transfer over from my Explorer and want to know if I can use the PMEZ device, or if I need to get a PMP and use the add-a-circuit from the fuse box; prefer the former over the latter. Thanks!
 

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anyone have luck with an OBD-II power source? I have a Blackvue Dash Cam that I want to transfer over from my Explorer and want to know if I can use the PMEZ device, or if I need to get a PMP and use the add-a-circuit from the fuse box; prefer the former over the latter. Thanks!
I just installed using OBD-II for power source. Works like a champ. I wanted to be able to switch from constant on to ACC and the OBD-II switch allows that.
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Can you show me your pinout on the OBD-II adapter you use? My PMEZ for my Blackvue is not supplying power to the camera.
 

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Can you show me your pinout on the OBD-II adapter you use? My PMEZ for my Blackvue is not supplying power to the camera.
It's sealed up so can't see wire colors but on the OBD-II connector, it looks like pins 4, 5, and 16.
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So I finally heard back from BlackVue and they're saying that their PMEZ (OBD2 Power Kit) is not compatible with Hyundai. So if anyone is planning on getting that to power their devices, look away from it.
 

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2020 AWD Palisade SEL (Lagoon Silver/BlackBlack) with Conv
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Is there a switched 12v supply going to the rearview mirror on the Limited? There are 4 wires going to the mirror, a Blk, a Red, and two others. None seem to be switched with the ACC button or after starting the engine. I am looking to tap in for my radar detector mounted to the mirror stalk. Sorry this is a little off-topic, just haven't found anyone that has done that.
Would also be interested in knowing if anyone has tapped 12V from the mirror (or sunroof controls).. on a previous vehicle I bought a 12V female socket, and wired that in to dead space in the roof console.. then I simply plugged the radar detector in to that and ran the wire over the headliner and out the front down the mirror stalk. Hoping to to the same (take delivery this week)
 

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Would also be interested in knowing if anyone has tapped 12V from the mirror (or sunroof controls).. on a previous vehicle I bought a 12V female socket, and wired that in to dead space in the roof console.. then I simply plugged the radar detector in to that and ran the wire over the headliner and out the front down the mirror stalk. Hoping to to the same (take delivery this week)
I did it.
Wired it to black and green behind the mirror. Have had zero issues and am now contemplating using an old dashcam in the back as well. I'm going to check the wiring behind the rear light.
 

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Installed dashcam yesterday - pillar removal is same as my 2018 Elantra without the hidden screw to 'pre' release cover. You just pop off by hand from snaps holding in place at the upper portion then you must release the plastic clip by pressing down on the two tabs (see image below). Either you get a child to get their fingers in there or use some really skinny needle nose pliers. Once that is released you pull gently up and away to remove the A pillar cover. I have in past zip tied and used electrical tape to keep dashcam wiring from getting in way of airbag but in this case just wrapped it around existing electrical wiring running down A pillar. To complete wiring to fuse box you can remove side panel on dash by gently prying plastic panel away with either plastic lever or flat head screw driver wrapped on cloth so as not to scratch. The plastic panel is only held in place by snaps (think 3 or 4) and once you pop one section off the rest comes easy. From there you have access to screw to attach ground and can better route wiring.

View attachment 395
View attachment 394

As far as which fuses to tap into my camera needs both a constant 12v power supply (VCC) and one that is only supplying 12v when vehicle is turned on (ACC). Using my volt meter found a spares for each. If you are looking for ACC I used the spare three over from bottom right and up one. If you are looking for VCC use the one 4 up from bottom right.

View attachment 392

happy hardwiring...
Followed your photos and watched the video to install a Roav A1 dashcam and it took maybe 15-20 mins so a pretty easy install. Thanks for the excellent photos! I installed the A1 since it was meant for an older car but I never got around to installing it on there and was interested in getting something newer for better resolution and night vision. Any recommendations?

View attachment 621 View attachment 622
I ended up getting a Viofo A129 Duo Pro since it was on sale recently and installed it this past saturday to replace the Roav A1. I just followed the Korean install video for general placement and used @keller94 electrical fuse suggestion to get the ACC and BATT locations. I also verified the signals using a multimeter to make sure it matched up to the circuit type. I did have issues with the Tap a Fuse kit that I got where the plastic around the tap fuse housing was getting stuck in the fuse location in the block, which meant that it wasnt securely inserted even though it seemed to be. I had to really shove it in to make a solid connection. Since I used the hardwire kit, I have it set to the highest trigger voltage (12.4V) for the parking mode and after a day, the voltage seemed to drop about 0.02V.
 
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