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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I had been hoping to do this for a while and just couldn't find the information I was looking for.
Then I found a post on installing a radar detector that provided all of the information I needed. FWIW, I had been using a connection to the OBD port, but I'm not a big fan of using that as the power source and I hated the wiring options needed to get a clean install.

Figured I would share details and pictures here so it's easier to search for.

First I ordered this (make sure you get the right USB connection for your dashcam):
SimpleUSBCable 12V to MiniUSB Two-Prong Universal Dashcam Adapter

Opened up the easily accessible panel behind the mirror.
Unplugged the connection for the Homelink mirror to verify the correct connection points.
I used the green (switched power) and black (ground) connection points for my dashcam (I don't want the camera running when the car isn't on).
Verified everything works and cleaned up install with electrical tape then reconnected plug to the mirror.

Total time spent was about 15 minutes.

Hope it helps anyone else trying to do a similar install.

Pics:
1264
1265
1266
 

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2020 AWD Palisade SEL (Lagoon Silver/BlackBlack) with Conv
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So for this approach, those wire/prongs just slip in to the back side of the power connector (which appears to be behind the panel to the passenger side?)

thanks!

EDIT: I have ordered https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PMDWSVD

will report next week after it arrives and I have time to install

Any trick to removing the panels around the mirror?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes. The prongs slide into the connector that is behind the mirror. It's the middle section that pops out, not the passenger side one (although that might come off as well).
Just test it to make sure it operates the way you want it to before taping up and putting the cover back on.

Next plan is to check the wiring behind the rear light. I want to wire an old dashcam back there as well. I need to know the voltage though as I'd be surprised if 12V was running to a light switch.
 

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2020 AWD Palisade SEL (Lagoon Silver/BlackBlack) with Conv
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I ordered this for my Uniden radar detector (12V)


and installed easily ... yes just remove the center plate... I used the thinner set of prongs. I unplugged and found that the prongs slipped in the back/top(?) side more easily

I then used the supplied covers for the 2nd set of prongs, and wrapped a small piece of electrical tape to make sure they stayed in place. Then folded those back and taped to the cable, and finally 1 of the supplied cable ties to the cars harness. Plugged back in an voila!

Didn't know it could be this easy. Thanks for the tip!!

1313
 

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Hey guys.. a little lost here trying to do this the same way. Do I just put the prongs in the extra spots on the power supply? Or what exactly am I supposed to do?

thanks
 

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2020 AWD Palisade SEL (Lagoon Silver/BlackBlack) with Conv
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@nelson: you are putting the prongs in the SAME holes (from the rear) as existing wires.
  • red wire on connector goes in the same hole as the green (switched power) wire
  • black matches up with black for ground
Always test before closing things back up.
 

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Cool! I'll see if I can find a dash cam that can auto-shutoff and then self-activate on motion. I assume the always-on wire is posted somewhere in the forums....
 

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Thanks folks. I am not sure the dashcam I had in my old truck will work well with this large dot matrix around the mirror, but I will use this method to wire up either my existing or new one.
 

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OK I did the $20 power from mirror power supply today for new dashcam too.

1829


With the cover off. I plugged wires into green on the left, and black.


Voltage converter sticks in gap between mirror box and headliner. You really don't see it (do when I shine a flashlight on that to show in photo)
1899

I ended up getting a new Apeman unit front/rear camera for $45 when I decided the dashcam from my old truck would not work with this car (it would be so low with the big dot matrix of the Palisade the camera would be very much in the way).

I have to say that so far I am impressed with this new unit. It even came with memory card and a tool to help shove wire through edges of headliner and all. It actually was quite easy to run wires, there is even a little connection at rear camera so you can just shove the 12" of that wire right through the boot of the rear trunk with the rest of the wires and not have to pull all 20' of the wire through that. Plenty of wire (about 5' too much).
1831


I will at least paint these screws on the rear camera mount or probably 3D print a black plastic cover that hides all the screws once I measure this up or use my 3D scanner to model up the components and profile of the trunk plastic.

Old dashcam which I will put into the car I will give my daughter.
1832
 

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OK I did the $20 power from mirror power supply today for new dashcam too.

View attachment 1829

With the cover off. I plugged wires into green on the left, and black.


Voltage converter sticks in gap between mirror box and headliner. You really don't see it (do when I shine a flashlight on that to show in photo)
View attachment 1899
I ended up getting a new Apeman unit front/rear camera for $45 when I decided the dashcam from my old truck would not work with this car (it would be so low with the big dot matrix of the Palisade the camera would be very much in the way).

I have to say that so far I am impressed with this new unit. It even came with memory card and a tool to help shove wire through edges of headliner and all. It actually was quite easy to run wires, there is even a little connection at rear camera so you can just shove the 12" of that wire right through the boot of the rear trunk with the rest of the wires and not have to pull all 20' of the wire through that. Plenty of wire (about 5' too much).
View attachment 1831

I will at least paint these screws on the rear camera mount or probably 3D print a black plastic cover that hides all the screws once I measure this up or use my 3D scanner to model up the components and profile of the trunk plastic.

Old dashcam which I will put into the car I will give my daughter.
View attachment 1832
How is the night vision on Apeman dash cam?
 

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How is the night vision on Apeman dash cam?
I think it's not bad. Better than some of my older ones, but not sure what you are looking for. Here is a screen capture from driving last night:
2390


Here is the rear camera feed from last night too. Not as clear being I think 720p and well, don't have those awesome flipping headlights of the palli.
2391


Here is daytime rear feed:
2392


And front feed from the same stoplight:
2393
 

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I guess that I should note that I smoked the first Apeman dashcam. It worked fine for a week or so, I smelled burning circuits while driving down the mountain the first time I was driving the hills with the kids and the rear camera would not show up anymore. Must have been the dashcam. Scared me as I didn't know what that was and worried it was something in the car. I replaced dashcam (just the main unit) a couple weeks later and all works OK now. I also had issues with that first unit turning itself off all the time for some reason. New one has worked fine for the past couple months.
 

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I think it's not bad. Better than some of my older ones, but not sure what you are looking for. Here is a screen capture from driving last night:
View attachment 2390

Here is the rear camera feed from last night too. Not as clear being I think 720p and well, don't have those awesome flipping headlights of the palli.
View attachment 2391

Here is daytime rear feed:
View attachment 2392

And front feed from the same stoplight:
View attachment 2393
Thank you for the pictures.Viofo A119 V3 is 1600p, but it's more expensive, $120. Picture quality should be better than 1080p.
 

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2021 Palisade Calligraphy
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So I had been hoping to do this for a while and just couldn't find the information I was looking for.
Then I found a post on installing a radar detector that provided all of the information I needed. FWIW, I had been using a connection to the OBD port, but I'm not a big fan of using that as the power source and I hated the wiring options needed to get a clean install.

Figured I would share details and pictures here so it's easier to search for.

First I ordered this (make sure you get the right USB connection for your dashcam):
SimpleUSBCable 12V to MiniUSB Two-Prong Universal Dashcam Adapter

Opened up the easily accessible panel behind the mirror.
Unplugged the connection for the Homelink mirror to verify the correct connection points.
I used the green (switched power) and black (ground) connection points for my dashcam (I don't want the camera running when the car isn't on).
Verified everything works and cleaned up install with electrical tape then reconnected plug to the mirror.

Total time spent was about 15 minutes.

Hope it helps anyone else trying to do a similar install.

Pics: View attachment 1264 View attachment 1265 View attachment 1266

I need a little help. I ordered the same 2-prong connector you linked for my dash cam. I opened up the middle panel and unclipped the power connector for the mirror. The prongs don't seem to fit "snug" in the back side of the connector for me. Also, I couldn't seem to get it to power my dash cam. Everything I tried wouldn't work.

Did you slide your prongs in the exact same slot as the green/back wires on the back of the mirror connector? Or did you manage to use the slot "above" each respective wire?

Sorry, I have very little "wiring" experience and this has be stumped. Any tips?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not above.... same slot.
Slide into appropriate area and wrap the connector in electrical tape.

Take a couple pictures of the struggle. Happy to help.
 

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Not above.... same slot.
Slide into appropriate area and wrap the connector in electrical tape.

Take a couple pictures of the struggle. Happy to help.
Thanks, I'm gonna take a look at it again tomorrow and I'll snap some pics if I still have no luck.

I felt like the prongs didn't fit in the "same slot" and the existing wires. Maybe I was going at it wrong. I tried to do it right as the sun was going down, so I had almost zero natural light and was using a phone flashlight to see... That probably didn't make things any easier.
 

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Thanks, I'm gonna take a look at it again tomorrow and I'll snap some pics if I still have no luck.

I felt like the prongs didn't fit in the "same slot" and the existing wires. Maybe I was going at it wrong. I tried to do it right as the sun was going down, so I had almost zero natural light and was using a phone flashlight to see... That probably didn't make things any easier.
The Mini USB extension cable that I used had small size pins/prongs for two power wires. They felt loose when I inserted in the rear view mirror connector. After inserting, I used electrical tape and tested it, and it worked. However, when we had a family outing, the camera did not work. I ended up slicing the power wires from the rear view mirror connector and soldering the wires. If you are technically inclined, this is the best way.
 
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The Mini USB extension cable that I used had small size pins/prongs for two power wires. They felt loose when I inserted in the rear view mirror connector. After inserting, I used electrical tape and tested it, and it worked. However, when we had a family outing, the camera did not work. I ended up slicing the power wires from the rear view mirror connector and soldering the wires. If you are technically inclined, this is the best way.
That sounds like the best way to go for sure.

I am fairly mechanically/technically inclined but I have never really messed with wiring or soldering. I am hoping I can get the prong connector I have to work this afternoon. I will report back...
 

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So, here's where I'm at. I'll include pics down below...
3391


This is what my connector looks like... And this is the power kit I received via the Amazon link from OP
3392

My problem is that I can't seem to get the prongs in far enough. I got them in once and they felt "snug," but it still wouldn't power my dash cam. This is about as far as I can get the prongs in... (Only red inserted for reference)
3393

Is there something I'm missing here? I feel like it should be way easier to get the prongs in based on what you all said above.

Thanks for any and all input.
 
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